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Tips for successful gardening

 

by Hanson Young, Extension Educator, ANR Purdue Extension Service-Noble

 

Dealing with Landscape Soils

by Larry Caplan & Roy Ballard; Purdue University and Mike Mickelbart; Purdue University Nursery & Landscape Management Specialist-Part 2 of 2

 

Selecting good topsoil
Be sure to evaluate the soil quality before having it transported and dumped at the site. When buying topsoil, consideration should be given to the desired pH range of the types of landscape plants to be grown. Certain acid-loving plants will not grow well when the soil pH is greater than 6.0. Topsoil with pH values near
5.0 can be amended with lime if a higher soil pH is desired. It is more difficult and expensive, however, to lower soil pH if it is higher than desired, although this can be accomplished by using elemental sulfur of the situation allows.
As with existing soils, the most important qualities of soil co be used as topsoil include texture, organic matter content, pH, and nutrient content. Naturally occurring soils vary widely in quality as do soils marketed as topsoil. Naturally~occurring topsoil usually differs from the underlying soil by having higher organic matter content, a darker color, better tilth, and higher biological activity in the form of earthworms, bacteria, and fungi. These qualities (except soil color) provide a better growing environment for landscape plant materials than do most subsoils. Good topsoil is usually less compact than the underlying subsoil.
Soil moved from one location to another that is marketed as topsoil will be markedly different from naturally occurring topsoils because their structure has been destroyed. That does not mean they do not have important properties for plant establishment and growth that are superior to subsoil at a given site. It simply means that it should not be considered to be the same as naturally occurring topsoil.
It should be noted that there is no official or legal definition for what is commonly referred to as topsoil. A practical definition for a topsoil is the top six to ten inches of soil or the depth to which the soil is plowed or cultivated. However, legally, any kind of fill dirt can be sold as topsoil. In some areas of Indiana, river-bottom silt is removed and sold as topsoil. These soils are mostly silt and day, and may contain contaminants.
Before you purchase topsoil, it is important to visually inspect the soil .... it's time for a field trip to the site where the soil is stockpiled! The soil that you select should be free of large stones and foreign materials such as broken glass, paint chips, and plastic. Gravel content should be less than 10%. Ask about any herbicides that may have been applied to the soil source and when as they have a wide range of active residue time that could potentially impact plant growth. It is important to know that the soil you select is actually that which is loaded and ultimately delivered and unloaded at your site. This comes with developing a relationship with your topsoil supplier.
Check the topsoil for plant debris. If there are large pieces of plant material that have not broken down, this may lead to a nitrogen deficiency because microbes that will break down this plant material will take nitrogen from the soil (known as nitrogen immobilization-see the Science Review in this issue). Check for living roots that may be from perennial weeds such as morning glory.
Newly applied topsoils should be spread and graded by means which result in the least compaction possible and when soil is in a friable. The alteration of soils structure through compaction and overworking (pulverization) can have profound, long term effects on the permeability of the soil which directly influences capacity of a soil to drain adequately and permit root penetration and seedling emergence.
Soil compaction will limit plant growth of turf, whether seed or sod is used, and annuals, perennials, and woody plants. No amount of lime, gypsum, or fertilizer applied after the damage is done will correct the damage done in one afternoon of working the soil in an improper manner.
Great care should be taken to avoid damage to any utilities and to existing plant materials. Covering tree roots with any significant depth of soil (over 1 inch) can lead to tree decline over time. Another important consideration when adding and re-grading soils is to avoid inadvertently altering the future pattern of surface water drainage especially where it may divert the water toward a structure, a neighbor's property, an existing septic field or impede an existing drainage way.

Plant selection
Finally, matching plants with the site is critical. Purdue and other universities have publications that list plants that will tolerate problem soils such as those found in sandy, acid. dry, or wet sites. Take these lists with a grain of salt, though. Most plants that will tolerate wet soils still require decent drainage. Other than a few plants native to boggy wetlands, a wet, poorly drained soil will not hold enough oxygen to allow root survival.
A good idea would be to cross reference the plants on these lists with a more comprehensive discussion of species, such as Michael Dirr's "Manual of Woody Landscape Plants." Apart from site limitations, it is also important to consider size, light requirements, and pest and disease susceptibility. Books such as Dirr's list many cultivars of a given species. Where as a website will often simply list species. Dirr may have found a cultivar that can thrive in a given condition that the species as a whole cannot tolerate. Just keep in mind that we are quite a ways north of most of Din's experiences!
There is both an art and a science to landscape design. "While designs can he redrawn to appeal to the most finicky clients, there are certain biological limitations that cannot be ignored. If designers will remember that half of the plant is underground, and that "happy roots make happy plants," they will succeed in giving their clients a beautiful, functional, and long-lived landscape.

And there you have it, this is Hanson Young, Purdue Extension, have a great week.

 

Dealing with Landscape Soils

Part 1 of 2

by Larry Caplan & Roy Ballard; Purdue University and Mike Mickelbart; Purdue University Nursery & Landscape Management Specialist

The art of designing an attractive landscape relies heavily on one's artistic talents. No surprise there. Balancing forms, colors, textures, and shapes to make an eye-catching setting requires skills and abilities far beyond what can be taught in a classroom. However, horticulture is a combination of art and science: matching plants with site characteristics is critical to a successful planting.
Assessing current conditions
Good landscape plantings begin with good soils. Unfortunately, construction activities often remove or significantly disrupt (the structure of the existing soil at a given site. While it is always better to avoid this type of damage, once it occurs there is little that can be done but try to mitigate the damage by improving the soil environment that remains. The important thing is to take the time and effort to determine the properties of the soil at the planting site.
There are many reasons why soil characteristics at a given site are ignored. Many property owners simply don't think about how soil conditions affect plant growth and performance. They may have a specific plant in mind, and will plant it regardless of the site. Landscapers, under installment deadlines, may not have the time to take samples and wait for soil test results.
Some designers may think that a soil test is not necessary because they can get the information they need from a soil map. However, in the process of building a subdivision or commercial strip mall, topsoil is routinely removed so that the structures can be built on firm subsoil. The remaining subsoil layer is not the same soil as that presented on the soil map. Fill dirt may be brought in to raise the grade of low areas. Numerous trucks and bulldozers have driven over the site repeatedly. Heavy building supplies have been stacked on the future site of the landscape. These activities lead to soil compaction. Even when the topsoil that was originally removed is placed back in its (roughly) original location, its Structure has been completely destroyed, so that it does not have the same characteristics of the soil as described on the soil map.
Before plant selection occurs, a thorough and complete site analysis should be made. Soil samples should be sent off to a reputable lab for testing. A soil test can provide pH, organic matter, cation exchange capacity, texture, and nutrient concentration, depending on what is specified. Steps can be taken to amend soils to deal with any deficiencies indicated by a soil test. However, whereas soil chemistry is readily assessed, deficiencies identified, and amendments added to compensate, the same is less readily accomplished with improvement of radically altered physical properties through stratification, inversion of soil horizons, or companion. For this reason, extreme care should be taken to avoid alteration of soil structure.
It is not easy to improve a soil with undesirable physical properties. The physical condition of a soil depends largely (but not entirely) on its soil texture. Soil texture refers to the percent sand, silt, and clay content in a given soil. Topsoil with highly desirable textures has sand, silt, and clay contents within the following ranges:
- Sand 40 to 65% - Silt 25 to 60% - Clay 5 to 20%
Examples of soil textural classes with desirable textures are loams, particularly sandy loams and silt loams. Soil texture can be estimated by feel with trained hands or determined by submitting a sample to a soil testing laboratory for mechanical analysis. However, soils with the same or similar texture classification when treated in difference ways can perform very differently in the way that they drain, allow for root penetration, or provide necessary oxygen to developing roots.
A soil nutrient analysis test is the most reliable way to evaluate soil nutrient quality. If soil fertility levels are low, fertilizers can be applied as needed. There are a number of extension materials available from Purdue and other universities on soil sampling techniques, appropriate soil nutrient concentrations, and recommendations for correcting soil nutrient deficiencies.

Tune in next week for more on assessing current soil conditions. This is Hanson Young Purdue Extension, have a great week.

 

Late Blight of Tomato - by Dan Egel, Extension Plant Pathologist, SWPAC, Department of Botany & Plant Pathology, Purdue University
Late blight of tomato causes large, brown, wet-looking lesions on tomato leaves and causes tomato fruit to turn brown and rot. The same fungus that causes late blight of tomato of also cause's late blight of potato, the disease that was responsible for the Irish potato famine in the mid 1840's. In late summer and fall of 2009, late blight of tomato was reported in Indiana for the first time in many years. Homeowners and commercial growers were affected by the disease. In all, over 30 counties were affected. The reason late blight doesn't affect tomatoes every year is that the fungus doesn't usually live through Indiana winters. It is likely that the late blight fungus arrived in Indiana in 2009 on tomato transplants.
Whether or not late blight will show up this year is of interest to tomato growers all over Indiana. It is doubtful that the fungus that causes late blight will survive the Indiana winter unless the tomato or potato tissue has been sheltered as in a greenhouse. Another way in which the late blight fungus might survive is on potato tubers in the soil where the fungus is protected from the cold.
Details on how to avoid late blight, what to do if late blight is suspected and how to manage late blight can be found in Ag Answers Frequently Asked Question's which are below:
1. What is late blight? Late blight is a very contagious disease that infects tomatoes and potatoes. When conditions are cool and wet, this extremely destructive disease quickly kills foliage of both crops and rots tomato fruit and potato tubers if not managed.
2. What can I do to prevent late blight on my tomatoes? It may not be possible to totally prevent tomatoes from getting late blight and much depends on the weather. However, the timely application of the proper fungicides may slow down the disease so that tomatoes can be produced. Next year, gardeners should carefully inspect purchased transplants for any symptoms of disease. It's also a good practice, in general, to rotate where tomatoes are grown to a new garden plot every year.
3. Are the materials people are using to prevent late blight safe? Growers should handle all pesticides carefully and follow all label directions. Fungicides are safe if used exactly as directed.
4. What are symptoms of late blight? Classic symptoms are large (at least nickel sized) olive green to brown spots on leaves with slightly fuzzy white fungal growth on the underside when conditions have been humid (early morning and after rain). Sometimes the lesion is yellow or has a water-soaked appearance. Leaf lesions begin as timey irregularly shaped brown spots. Also brown to blackish lesions develop on upper stems. Firm brown spots develop on tomato fruit.
5. I have problems on many crops in my garden this year. Is this a result to late blight? Late blight only affects plants in the Solanaceae family, primarily tomatoes and potatoes. Peppers, tomatillo and eggplant also are sometimes infected; though less commonly and with less damage.
6. Is there anything else that looks like late blight on tomatoes? In early stages it could be mistaken for other foliar diseases such as Septoria leaf spot or early blight. Late blight causes much more extensive damage as it progresses.
7. The leaves on my plants look great but when I picked a tomato off my plant, I noticed that the bottom of the fruit was black with mold. Is this late blight? No, this is blossom end rot, a noninfectious problem related to a lack of available calcium to the fruit. Maintaining balanced moisture levels around the plants may help alleviate this problem.
8. If my tomatoes are infected by late blight, what should I do? Plants with extensive blighting should be removed because fungicide applications won't be able to stop the damage. Plants can be burned, buried or covered with a plastic bag for removal. Do not put blighted plants in the compost pile. They will continue to produce spores as they decompose.
9. Can I still eat tomatoes that have been affected by late blight? Are they safe to eat? Other than avoiding tomatoes that have lesions on them, tomatoes from plants or gardens that have been affected can be eaten.
10. Should I treat my tomato fruit from late blight infected garden differently? No, just wash your tomatoes prior to eating them as you always would.
11. Is there anything that I can do to treat the soil around my tomato plants? There is no soil treatment. Thin-walled spores of the fungal-like organism that causes late blight do not survive in freezing temperatures. However, it is always a good idea to rotate tomatoes to different ground every year, if practical, as a cultural method to reduce disease and insect problems in general.
12. My tomatoes were infected by late blight; can I still use my tomato stakes next year? Yes, but it is always a good idea to clean your stakes of crop debris and then treat your tomato stakes with a solution of 10% bleach or a quaternary ammonia solution (e.g., Creenshield or Physan 20). Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection when treating stakes.
13. Is there anything else I need to know about treating for late blight of tomatoes? If you have questions about treating your garden with fungicides, consult an educator from a local Purdue Extension Office or a garden center. Always read the back of any pesticide product carefully and follow the directions. Be safe!
14. Are there tomato varieties that are resistant to late blight? Currently, there are no tomato varieties resistant to late blight.
15. If I have late blight on tomatoes, what are the chances it will infect my potatoes? There are two types of strains of the fungus that causes late blight: Tomato aggressive strains and tomato non-aggressive strains. Tomato aggressive strains cause severe disease on both tomatoes and potatoes. Tomato non-aggressive stains infect potatoes, but cause only minor amounts of disease on tomatoes. If late blight is on tomatoes, it will likely infect potatoes. Individuals should assume that this will happen. Potato harvest should occur as soon as reasonably possible and potatoes should be carefully inspected and discarded if symptoms of infection are found.
16. When was the last time late blight was observed in Indiana? In 1998 late blight was observed on potatoes in Knox County.
17. Is there anything I need to keep in mind or know when preparing for next year's garden? Homeowners should not save potatoes for next year's seed potatoes if there has been a chance of late blight occurring in the area. Late blight can be transmitted through seed potatoes.
18. Where can I learn more about late blight? More information about late blight is available at the Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory Web site at www.ppdl.purdue.edu

This is Hanson Young, Purdue Extension Service-Noble County, have a great week!

 

Web site provides resources for home gardeners
Home vegetable gardeners can find advice from experts on planting vegetables, protecting gardens against pests and more on the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service's vegetable gardening Web site, "Vegetable Tips: Resources for Easy Gardening." Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension horticulture specialist, said the site was launched last year to pool resources that home vegetable gardeners would find useful. "With tough economic times, we anticipated there would be an increased interest in beginning a garden," Lerner said. "That was true last year, and it seems like it will continue this year."
The site is organized chronologically and walks visitors through the steps in growing vegetables. The site includes sections on "Getting Started," "Planning," "Planting" and "Growing." New gardeners can find information on tools to use, crops to grow and budgets for a vegetable garden. Lerner said the site combines resources from several College of Agriculture departments, including Horticulture and Landscape Architecture, Entomology, Agronomy, and Botany and Plant Pathology, as well as Purdue's Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory. Lerner said that even if a gardener has been growing vegetables for a while, the site provides links to resources for problems such as pests, diseases and weeds.
The vegetable gardening Web site can be accessed at http://www.extension.purdue.edu/gardentips/vegetables.  Rosie Lerner; Hort. Specialist; Purdue University. This is a very informative web site and [I believe] will prove helpful for any gardener [from the novice to the experienced].
This is Hanson Young, Purdue Extension ANR, have a great day.

Spring Time Reminders

Part 1 of 2
FLOWERS
      Zinnia Cultivars for Butterfly Attraction Would you like to increase the number and type of butterfly visits to your garden this year? A recent study in the Journal of Environmental Horticulture (Yeargan and Colvin, 2009) evaluated four cultivars of zinnia for butterfly feeding preferences. The four widely available cultivars were Zinnia violacea (formerly Zinnia elegans) 'Lilliput', 'Oklahoma', 'State Fair', and Zinnia marylandica 'Pinwheel' (all mixed colors). Butterfly visits were counted both in the morning and afternoon for seven weeks in August and September (in Kentucky). Thirty different species of butterflies were identified as Zinnia visitors. Twice as many total butterflies visited 'Lilliput' than any of the other cultivars.
Also, a greater number of butterfly species visited 'Lilliput' than visited other cultivars. Zinnia violacea 'Lilliput' is a truly heirloom zinnia cultivar, having been developed in the 1870s, but fortunately it remains readily available today at local stores and through Internet seed sales. This cultivar should be an excellent addition to any butterfly garden. (CB)

Planting Easter Lilies Outside
      Gardeners often hate to throw out Easter Lilies after they finish blooming and may wonder if they can grow outside. Though not reliably hardy, many gardeners have success if they follow a few simple rules.
1. After the flowers have faded, remove the flower stalk so that energy does not go into making seed.
2. Keep the plant inside until the danger of frost is past. Keep soil moist but never waterlogged. Don't allow water to sit in the tray.
Continue to fertilize.
3. The pot can be moved outside when frost is no longer a concern.
Sinking the pot into the soil up to the brim and placing in dappled shade will help reduce watering. Continue to water and fertilize until the top growth dies down.
4. Choose a sunny, well-drained spot for planting. Good drainage is vital for lilies, so the addition of organic matter is usually necessary for most soils. Till or dig the soil 6 inches deep and add 3 inches of peat moss. Mix the soil and peat moss together. This will form a berm that should drain very well.
5. Plant the bulbs 6 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart and water in well. Mulch to conserve moisture. New growth may appear later in the summer, or the plant may stay dormant until the following spring.
6. Cover the plants in the fall after the foliage has died down with straw, pine needles, wood chips or other types of mulch to help protect the plant over winter. Use 4 inches of straw or 3 inches of any of the other materials.
7. Uncover the plants in the spring to allow new growth to appear, and fertilize according to soil test. (WU)

Fertilizing the Home Orchard
      Fruit trees benefit from fertilization around the bloom period. However, the amount needed varies with the age of the tree. Normally, trees need primarily nitrogen, and so the recommendations are for a high nitrogen fertilizer such as a 27-3-3, 29-5-4, 30-3-3 or something similar. Though recommended for lawns, these fertilizers will also work well for our purposes as long as they do not contain weed killers or crabgrass preventers. Use the following rates: Trees 1 to 2 years old, apply one-fourth cup of fertilizer per tree; Trees 3 to 4 years old, apply one-half cup per tree; Trees 5 to 10 years old, apply 1 to 2 cups per tree; Trees more than 10 years old, apply 2 to 3 cups. You may also use nitrate of soda (16-0-0) but double the rate recommended above. If a soil test calls for phosphorus and potassium, use a 10-10-10 but triple the rate. On apple trees, last year's growth should be 8 to 10 inches, cherries should have 10 to 12 inches and peaches should equal 12 to 15 inches of terminal growth. If less than this, apply the higher rate of fertilizer, and if more, apply the lesser amount. Spread all fertilizer evenly on the ground away from the trunk of the tree and to the outer spread of the branches. Water in the fertilizer. (WU)
Contributors: Ward Upham, Ext.; Cheryl Boyer, Orn. Plant Prod. Spec.

Tune in next week for more Spring time reminders. This is Hanson Young, Purdue Extension Educator, have a great day!

 

Best Guess

Spring Weather
Best Guess: Weather - The early season heat spell will come to an end during Thursday as showers and thunderstorms herald the arrival of seasonably cool and less humid air. High pressure will move into the region during the weekend and this will bring a prolonged period of settled, dry conditions that will lead to a steady warming trend next week. All sections are expected to receive between 0.20 and .075" of rain with the front's passage Thursday into early Friday. The next risk of showers is not expected until Thursday or Friday (April 15-16) and there is some uncertainty about this rain.
Precipitation for the first half of the growing season should average below to much below normal with temperatures expected to average much above normal into the third week of April. A sharp cold snap is probable during the last week of April or the first week of May with frosts in the northern half of the state a possibility. Current indications for summer favor warmer than average conditions from mid June into mid-July and then notably cooler weather with above average rainfall from late July through August.

 

Don't Work Soil Too Wet
This has been a very wet winter for most parts of the state. Resist the temptation to work any soil if it is wet. Doing so destroys the structure of the soil resulting in clods that may not break down all summer. To determine if a soil is too wet to work, grab a handful and squeeze. If water comes out, it is much too wet. Even if no water drips out, it still may not be dry enough to work. Push a finger into the soil you squeezed. If it crumbles, it is dry enough, but if your finger just leaves an indentation, more time is needed. Be sure to take your handfuls of soil from the depth you plan to work the soil because deeper soils may contain more moisture than the surface.
If tree planting is in your future, you may want to work the soil as soon as it is dry enough to work. You may then protect that area from becoming too wet by covering with a tarp if rain is forecast near the planting date.

Coldframes and Hotbeds-Uses of Coldframes
These mini-greenhouses can be useful for serious gardeners. Though often used for hardening off seedlings, they can also be helpful in extending the growing season in the fall for cool-season vegetables such as lettuce, kale, green onions, and radishes. You may also want to start pansies in the fall, over-winter them in the cold frame, and set out large plants that give immediate color in the spring. Cold frames also can be used to over-winter nursery plants or give the cold treatment needed to force bulbs. In these last two cases, the cold frame is covered with a tarp or something similar late in the fall just before the ground freezes so that the temperature hovers just above freezing. During the summer, you can remove the top and use the structure as a nursery.

Basic Design of Cold frames and Hotbeds
The structure of both cold frames and hotbeds is the same. Basically it's a box covered with glass, plastic or clear fiberglass. The box size varies but is often 5 to 6 feet deep and 6 to 12 feet wide. Height also varies but is often about 18 inches in the back and 12 inches in the front. The slope should face south so that rays from the winter sun can be captured more easily.
The only difference between a cold frame and a hotbed is that hotbeds contain a heat source. In the early part of last century, that heat source was often 12 to 24 inches of fresh, straw-laced horse manure placed in a pit under the structure. Today, electric heating cables are often used. Hotbeds are more versatile than cold frames and allow young, tender plants to be started earlier in the year.
Cold frames and hotbeds used to require almost constant attention.
Venting is absolutely necessary on bright, sunshiny days, even if the outside temperature is relatively cool. If the frames are not vented in a timely manner, the plants can easily overheat. Venting in normally done by having the clear covering (glass, fiberglass, or plastic) fastened to a frame that is attached to the box portion of the structure with hinges. This sash is propped open to let excess heat escape whenever temperatures demand. Though sashes can be propped open by hand, today we have automatic ventilators that use a temperature-sensitive compressed gas to open sashes. These do not require an external power source and can be set to open at different temperatures.
Cold frames and hotbeds can be purchased, or you may want to build your own. Plans for constructing either structure can be found at:
http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/g06965.pdf

This is Hanson Young, Purdue Extension-Noble County, have a great week.

 

Leaching Houseplants
Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the salt water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. What many people don't realize is that this same principle can harm plants.
Fertilizers are salts. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to take them up. However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants.
Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn't change until a plant is repotted. Thus salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if plants are fertilized heavily. Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to insure the health of our houseplants. Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts. How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot.
This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn't overflow the rim of the pot.
If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don't take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant.

 

Check Plants for Scale Insects
The dormant season is a good time to check woody plants for scale insect infestations. This time of year, deciduous plants do not have leaves, so scale are more easily seen. If an infestation is detected, make plans to apply a dormant oil for control late this winter. Scale insects are easily overlooked because they are small and immobile most of their lives, and they do not resemble most other insects. Many of them resemble small shells that are oval or circular, but some have more unusual shapes like oyster shells. Coloring varies, but can include white, tan and brown. Plants that should be inspected for scales include apples, pears, other fruit trees, bush fruits, lilac, crabapple, oak, ash, elm, lilac, maple, linden, arborvitae, juniper, pine, spruce and yew. Manhattan euonymus is especially noted for having scale problems.
Plants are not harmed if only a few scales are present. But scale population can increase dramatically during the growing season. Heavy scale infestations can damage fruit crops, destroy branches and kill entire plants. Contributors: Ward Upham, Ext. Associate; Megan Kennelly, Ext. Plant Path.  K-State

 

TURF-Vole Damage to Lawns
The snow cover not only increased the incidence of snow mold on lawn grasses but also led to some areas experiencing vole damage. Voles are also known as orchard mice or short-tailed meadow mice and look like a stout, short-tailed version of a house mouse. They usually are not very noticeable in our landscapes unless we have a significant amount of snow cover. In such cases, voles will construct meandering pathways through lawn areas become apparent once the snow melts.
Though voles can cause significant damage, they often are more of a nuisance. In most years, we don't even notice they are around.
Predators such as owls, coyotes, hawks, bobcats and house cats help keep them under control. They may be attracted to bird feeders as they can feed on seed that falls to the ground.
Vole damage is most severe when snow cover protects the rodents from predators and they become less selective in what they choose to eat. In such cases, they may cause more than usual damage to the bark of trees and shrubs in your landscape or orchard. If they eat all the bark in a circle around the trunk or stem, everything above that point dies due to the girdling.
If you have noticed vole damage to trees in your landscape, you may want to provide protection by encircling the trunk of trees with 1/4 inch hardware cloth. The hardware cloth may need to extend 3 to 6 inches into the soil and 18 inches above it to exclude these rodents. You can find more information on voles at: http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/ro_b177.pdf.

 

Moldy Turf?
The prolonged snow cover this winter is leading to some snow mold development. There are several types of snow molds, and for more details you can view http://tinyurl.com/yjegxa5 . In short, snow molds tend to occur where there is a long time-period of snow cover, especially where turf is matted down and when the turf was very lush at the time of the initial snow.
What to do? In a home lawn/landscape situation the best approach is to rake through the area to loosen up the matting and promote drying. Next year, make sure to mow the area into the fall to prevent the dense matting that predisposes a site to snow molds.

 

FRUIT-Time for Peach Leaf Curl Control
If you have ever seen emerging peach leaves that are puckered, swollen, distorted and reddish-green color, you have seen peach leaf curl.
Uncontrolled, this disease can severely weaken trees because of untimely leaf drop when leaves unfurl in the spring. Fortunately, peach leaf curl is not that difficult to control if the spray is applied early enough.
By the time you see symptoms, it is much too late. As a matter of fact, fungicides are ineffective if applied after buds begin to swell. Recent cold temperatures should keep trees in tight bud long enough to find a window for application. Don't spray when temperatures will fall below freezing before the spray dries.
Peach leaf curl can be controlled by a single fungicide application either in the fall after leaf drop or in the spring before bud swell.
There are several fungicides labeled for this disease including Bordeaux, liquid lime sulfur, and chlorothalonil (Ortho Garden Disease Control, Fertilome Broad Spectrum Fungicide, GardenTech Fungicide Disease Control, Gordon's Multipurpose Fungicide, and Daconil). Thoroughly cover the entire tree during application. Note that it is much easier to achieve good spray coverage if the tree is pruned before spraying.

 

Dormant Oil Sprays for Fruit Trees
There are a number of dormant sprays used on fruit to control various diseases and insects, but a dormant oil spray is designed to control scale insects. If you have a problem with scale, now is the time to start looking for an opportunity to spray. Normally spray should be applied by March 1, especially with peaches and nectarines. Apples are tougher, and application may be delayed up to the green tip stage.
Temperatures need to be at least 40 degrees so spray has a chance to dry before freezing. If the spray does freeze before it dries, plant injury can occur. Applying the spray during the morning will help insure that it dries properly. Thorough coverage of limbs, branches and twigs is vital for good control.

 

Pests and Flowers - Part 1 of 2
Perennial Garden Clean up
Fall is traditionally a time for cleaning up gardens. Normally, we recommend clear-cutting dead stems to help control insect and disease problems. However, with herbaceous perennials that have been pest free, you might want to consider leaving some to provide structure, form, and color to the winter garden. For example, ornamental grasses can be attractive even during the winter months. But those near structures should be cut to the ground because they can be a fire hazard.

Perennials with evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage can provide color. Of course, some perennials are naturally messy after dormancy and should be cut back in the fall. Foliage may be left for other reasons. For example, foliage left on marginally hardy plants such as tender ferns help ensure overwintering of plant crowns. Also, seed heads on some perennial plants can provide seed for birds.

 

Winter Storage of Summer Bulbs
It is time to start thinking about storing bulbs that will not survive the winter. The bulbs of gladiolus, caladium, dahlia, tuberous begonia, calla lily, and canna lily need to be dug and stored so they can be planted next year. Actually, the storage organ of the above plants is not a true bulb. Canna and calla lilies are rhizomes, caladium and tuberous begonias are tubers, gladiolus is a corm, and dahlia is a tuberous-rooted plant.

All of these plants should be dug after freezing temperatures have browned the foliage, then allowed to dry for about a week in a shady, well-ventilated site, such as a garage or tool shed. Remove excess soil and pack them in peat moss, vermiculite or perlite or similar material. Make sure bulbs don't touch, so that if one decays the rot doesn't spread to its neighbors. Dusting them with fungicide before storage will help prevent them from rotting.
Caladium should be stored between 50 and 60 degrees F. The other bulbs mentioned should be stored near 40 degrees. Finding a good spot may be difficult. Some people place them against the basement wall farthest from the furnace, and insulate them so the wall keeps them cool.

 

Clean up Iris Beds this Fall
Irises are known for a couple of common problems: a fungus disease known as iris leaf spot and an insect named iris borer. Though both cause problems in the spring, now is the time to start control measures. Both the fungus and eggs of the borer overwinter on old, dead leaves.

Removing dead and infected iris leaves and other garden debris from the iris bed this fall reduces populations of these pests. This can significantly reduce problems next spring.

 

TURFGRASS
Control Broadleaf Weeds in Lawns in Early November Early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba.

Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots. Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up. Be sure to choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow or stop this process.

Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures approach 50 degrees.

 

PESTS - Autumn Home Invaders
We are starting to see and hear reports of annual household invaders. These include crickets, boxelder bugs, millipedes, and especially the multicolored Asian lady beetle. These insects typically try to invade homes this time of year looking for a shelter to survive the winter.

These pests pose no threat to health or property but can be a serious nuisance when present in significant numbers. The best way to protect your dwelling is to limit access by eliminating, or at least reducing, points of entry. Ensure that screens are tight fitting and intact. Make sure the caulk around windows and door frames are in good condition. Remove excess foliage and mulch from around the foundation.

Insecticides can also be effective if you treat the exterior foundation and some of the area around the outside of the building. This often reduces the number of potential household invaders. Once inside, sometimes hand-picking or vacuuming is enough to eliminate the problem.

Glue boards can also be helpful for trapping insects. However, if significant numbers do succeed in entering, an insecticide application inside the home may be required. Aerosol sprays may work to give a quick knock down but have short term effects. Insecticides with longer lasting effects can be sprayed along baseboards, in cracks, crevices, and other hiding places, and often works quite well. Always check the pesticide label to make sure the product you select is effective against the target pest and has no unwanted side effects, i.e. does not stain, leave unsightly residues, etc.

 

PESTS - Part 2 of 2
Autumn Home Invaders - continued from last week.
Benefits of Using Dormant Oils to Manage Arthropod Pests Arthropod (insect and mite) pests normally survive the winter months in an overwintering stage such as an egg or a mature female that emerges in the spring. Instead of waiting until spring to initiate management or regulation measures, it may be beneficial to apply dormant oil. The advantages of dormant oil applications are a wide range of activity against most species of mites and scales and minimal likelihood of arthropod pests developing resistance. In general, they are less harmful to beneficial insects and predatory mites (natural enemies) than those pesticides (insecticides and miticides) with long-residual activity and are relatively safe when in direct contact with animals and humans.

Disadvantages of dormant oil applications are potential phytotoxicity (plant injury) during the growing season and minimal residual activity or less persistence.

Dormant oils, which are commonly derived from paraffinic crude oil, are the heaviest of the petroleum oil sprays with a low unsulfonated residue. The unsulfonated residue is an assessment of the phytotoxic compounds remaining after distillation and refining. A UR value of 92% indicates a highly refined product with less potential for phytotoxicity. In general, dormant oils have a UR value of less than 92%.

Dormant oil applications are typically directed at killing overwintering arthropod pests including mites and scales before they become active in the spring and are capable of causing plant injury during feeding.

Applications are performed during the winter in order to minimize phytotoxicity to ornamental plants (trees and shrubs). A 2 to 4% rate is commonly used in late fall through early spring. Dormant oils are contact materials that either suffocate by blocking the breathing pores (spiracles) or directly penetrate and disrupt cell membranes of exposed arthropod pests. It is important to understand that dormant oils have minimal residual activity once the material dries, so thorough coverage of all plant parts is critical.

Dormant oils are applied to all plant parts because the overwintering stages of certain arthropod pests are located somewhere on the plant (e.g., bark). But a number of arthropod pests do not overwinter on plants. For example, dormant oil applications are not effective against the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) because this mite overwinters as a female in plant debris, mulch, or other non-plant protected places. In contrast, the spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis) is susceptible to dormant oil sprays because this mite species overwinters in the egg stage on plants such as arborvitae, juniper, hemlock, and pine.

Dormant oils are effective in killing the overwintering stages of scales, especially first and second instars or nymphs (=crawlers), and immature females. The euonymus scales (Unaspis euonymi), for example, overwinters as second instar nymphs or mated mature females; both life stages are susceptible to dormant oil applications. However, certain scales that typically overwinter as eggs, such as oystershell scale (Lepidosaphes ulmi) and pine needle scale (Chionaspis pinifoliae), are more tolerant of dormant oil applications. The reason for this is that the eggs are usually stacked on top of each other, and the dormant oil may not penetrate and contact the bottom layer. As a result, additional insecticide applications are typically required after egg hatch.

A concern when applying dormant oils is the potential for phytotoxicity.

For example, some plants such as arborvitae, beech, redbud, and certain maples (Japanese, red, sugar, and amur) may be harmed by dormant oil applications. Moreover, the needles of Colorado blue spruce may be discolored or change from blue to green as a result of dormant oil sprays. Phytotoxicity is commonly a problem when higher rates (greater than 4%) are used and/or when applications are performed in early fall before dormancy or in late spring at bud-break. Problems associated with phytotoxicity are less likely to occur when applications are performed in early November through February, which is when most plants are completely dormant. In order to avoid phytotoxicity, it is imperative that spray solution is continually agitated. In addition, never apply dormant oils when there is a possibility of freezing. Dormant oils should be applied to deciduous plants when the ambient air temperature is above freezing for at least 24 hours. Evergreens are more susceptible to spray injury than deciduous plants, so it is best to apply dormant oils when the ambient temperature remains above 40 degrees F over a 24-hour period.

 

Additionally, dormant oils should never be applied to plants that are stressed because plants that are experiencing "stress" are more susceptible to phytotoxicity. For example, lack of moisture, extreme ambient air temperatures, sudden drastic changes in the ambient air temperature after application, prolonged windy conditions, or insect/mite infestations or disease may predispose plants to phytotoxicity.

Preventative dormant oil applications can save time and money later when dealing with arthropod (insect and mite) pests. In fact, insecticide and/or miticide treatments may not be necessary, or the number of applications may be reduced, which can preserve the natural enemies (parasitoids and predators) of mites and scales.

 

Contributors:
Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Jeff Whitworth, Entomology; Holly Davis, Entomology; Ray Cloyd, Entomologist - Brand names appearing in this story are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

 

ORNAMENTALS
Fall Colors of Trees
Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown. Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in some states usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors. Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color. The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.

 

Is It a Maple or an Oak?
Sometimes people are unsure on how to tell the difference between a maple and an oak. The easiest way is to look at how the leaves are arranged on the stem. Maples are opposite leaved and oaks are alternate.

Opposite leaved plants such as maples and ash have leaves directly across from one another. Alternate leaved plants have leaves alternating up the stem; one on one side and the next, further up the stem, on the other.

 

Tree Leaves and Turf
It's that time of year again. Leaves are rapidly falling from deciduous trees so it's a good time to stop and think about options for handling the litter. Although a scattering of leaves won't harm the lawn, excessive cover prevents sunlight from reaching turfgrass plants. Turf left in this state for an extended period will be unable to make the carbohydrates needed to carry it through the winter.
There are options for dealing with the fallen leaves other than bagging them up and putting them out for the trash collector. Composting is a great way to handle the refuse. Compost can then be used in the vegetable garden and flowerbeds. If you do not compost, you can mow leaves with a mulching mower and let shredded leaves filter into the turf canopy. (A side-discharge mower also will work, but it won't shred the leaves as thoroughly.) This method will be most effective if you do it often enough that leaf litter doesn't become too thick. Mow while you can still see grass peeking through the leaves.

You may wonder whether this practice will be detrimental to the lawn in the long run. Research at Michigan State University in which they used a mulching mower to shred up to about one pound of leaves per square yard of lawn (one pound is equal to approximately 6 inches of leaves piled on the grass) for five consecutive years, found no long-term effects of the shredded leaves on turf quality, thatch thickness, organic content of the thatch, or soil test results (pH, nutrients, etc.). If you mow leaves on a cool-season lawn, it makes sense to be on a fall nitrogen fertilization program and core-aerate in the fall (things you should be doing anyway).

 

Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles
These insects deserve a little more explanation because although they are considered "beneficial" insects during the growing season, they can be serious nuisances now as they aggregate for overwintering. The USDA first imported these beetles to the United States in the late 70s and early 80s to help with aphid control. They are efficient aphid predators that possess biting/chewing mouthparts that can also deliver an irritating bite to people. If enough beetles congregate inside a home they can also cause a small odor problem, may stain certain substrates when smashed, and occasionally cause an allergic reaction in some individuals. If there are significant numbers of beetles in your area this fall it probably means that aphids were plentiful in nearby crops and other plants this past summer. These beetles are primarily attracted to the south- and west-facing sides of structures because they radiate/reflect the most heat.

 

Contributors:
Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Jeff Whitworth, Entomology; Holly Davis, Entomology; Ray Cloyd, Entomologist - Brand names appearing in this newsletter are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

 

Sunflowers - Harvesting and Roasting
        Seeds Sunflowers are usually ready to be harvested beginning in mid September and running into October. Though seed heads can be allowed to ripen on the plant, they will need protection from birds. Try covering the heads with a paper sack or cheesecloth once the petals start turning brown. A twist tie or rubber band can be used to secure the covering. This will not only help keep birds out but will prevent ripened seeds from dropping out of the head.

Check for maturity by looking for the following signs: - Florets in the center of the flower disk (the brown center) should be shriveled. - Heads should have turned down. - The backside of the head should be a lemon yellow color.

       The ultimate check, of course, is to pull a few seeds to see if they have turned the traditional black with white stripes. Empty shells usually indicate a lack of pollination earlier in the year. If head are to remain uncovered, harvest when a few seeds start turning the traditional color. The flavor will not be as high as with seed allowed to ripen on the plants but less seed will be lost. Cut the heads and place in a paper sack. Some people prefer to cut the heads with about a foot of stem attached and then hang them upside down in a dry, well ventilated area. A paper bag or cheesecloth can be placed over the heads to prevent seed from dropping during the drying process. Seeds can easily be removed from dry heads with a gentle rubbing action.

 

Roasting Seeds
       Raw, mature seeds may easily be prepared at home by covering unshelled seeds with salted water (2 qts. of water to 1/4 to 2 cup salt). Bring to a boil and simmer 2 hours or soak in the salt solution overnight. Drain and dry on absorbent paper. Put sunflower seeds in a shallow pan in a 300 degree F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Take out of the oven and add 1 teaspoon of melted butter or margarine, or cooking oil per 1 cup of seeds. Stir to coat. Put on an absorbent towel. Salt to taste.

 

Leaching Houseplants
       Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the salt water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. What many people don't realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to take them up However; salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants.

       Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn't change until a plant is repotted. Thus salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if plants are fertilized heavily. Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to insure the health of our houseplants. Now is a good time to leach while the weather is warm enough that the operation can be done outside. Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts. How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn't overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the potting mix, remove it but don't take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. Replace the removed media with fresh potting mix.

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Emily Nolting, Commercial & Ornamental Specialist; CES, K-State

Brand names are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

 

Volunteer efforts return Dividends
        The Noble County Master Gardeners work diligently all year long to raise money through various activities in order to build our scholarship fund. This spring, we were able to offer two scholarships, each valued at $750, to Noble county graduating seniors. Students intending to study horticulture or a related field were encouraged to apply. The scholarships were awarded based on the overall application, including: academic achievement, extracurricular activities, an essay, references, and financial status. Thad Wysong and Rachel Zeigler were chosen to receive these awards for the 2008-2009 school year. Thad Wysong, of Central Noble High School, intends to study agricultural systems management at Purdue University. Rachel Zeigler, from West Noble High School, has enrolled at IPFW in Fort Wayne in hopes of becoming a high school agricultural educator. Both students are to be commended for their hard work and dedication throughout their high school careers!
        By - Sara Lake, Purdue Advanced Master Gardener, Noble County

This is Hanson Young for Purdue Extension in Noble County; have a good week.

 

VEGETABLES - Squash and Pumpkin

 

Harvest Summer and winter squash differ in how they grow and in what stage they
are harvested. Summer squash tends to grow on compact, bushy plants and produce fruit that is harvested while immature. Zucchini, yellow straight neck or crookneck squash and bush scallop are examples of summer squash. Winter squash such as Butternut, Turban, Acorn, and Hubbard, are produced on large, trailing vines. Pumpkins are also
classified as winter squash and share the same basic characteristics.

Winter squash are harvested when mature and those that are eaten are peeled. You can tell that a winter squash (including pumpkins) is mature by using the thumbnail test. Mature fruit will have a hardened rind and will not be easily punctured with a thumbnail.

Pumpkins should be cured by placing them in a warm, dry location for about 10 days. Choose an area where the temperature will not drop below 50 degrees as cold temperatures can shorten storage life. Actually, best curing is achieved at 80 to 85 degrees F and 80 to 85 percent relative humidity without liquid water touching the pumpkins. However, such conditions are difficult for a homeowner to produce, so do the best you can. Butternut, Acorn, Turban, Hubbard and other squash types should be moved directly into storage without curing.

Acorn squash stores best at a temperature of 50 degrees F and 50 to 75 percent relative humidity. However, it has the shortest storage time of 5 to 8 weeks even if these recommendations are followed. These conditions are also best for Butternut and Turban squash as well as pumpkins but these are more stable and will last from 2 to 3 months.

Hubbards are the storage kings (5 to 6 months) but prefer a range that is a bit warmer (50 to 55 degrees F) and more humid (70 to 75 percent) than other types.

 

FRUIT - Storing Apples

You can enjoy apples from January to June with the right conditions.

Some apple cultivars can be stored for longer periods than others. Some cultivars will stay in firm, crisp condition for about 6 to 8 months with good storage conditions. The approximate length of time cultivars will keep well under refrigerated conditions are as follows: Wealthy: 60 days; Paula red: 90 days; Gala: 120 days; Jonathan: 120 days; Grimes Golden: 120 days; Golden Delicious: 150 days; Empire: 150 days; Delicious: 160 days; Braeburn: 180 days; Ida red: 200 days; Rome Beauty: 220 days; Winesap: 220 days; Fuji: 240 days; Granny Smith: 240 days; Arkansas Black: 240 days
The condition of the apples and how they are stored will strongly
influence the storage period.

Some guidelines to help assure good quality and maximum storage life of apples include: * Store only the best quality.

* Pick as they are first maturing.

* Avoid skin breaks, disease or insect damage, and bruises on individual fruit.

* Store in a plastic bag to help retain moisture in the apples. The bag should have a few small holes for air exchange. The bags of apples may be stored in boxes to prevent bruising if they must be stacked or moved from time to time. * Refrigerate at about 35 degrees F. An extra refrigerator works well.
* Sort about every 30 to 40 days to remove fruit that may be beginning to rot.

 

FLOWERS - Peonies May Be Cut Back Now

If the foliage of your peonies is spotted and no longer attractive, it may be cut back now. Peonies are essentially dormant by September 1 even though the leaves may still be green. Cut the leaves off close to the ground and compost or discard.

 

Contributors: Ward Upham, Extension Associate; Emily Nolting, Commercial
& Ornamental Specialist; CES, K-State Brand names are for product identification purposes only. No endorsement is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products not mentioned.

This is Hanson Young for Purdue Extension in Noble County; have a good
week.

 

Preventing the spread of invasive plants in Indiana

by Kate Howe and Woodland Steward

guest writer

Invasive plants are one of the greatest threats to conservation of natural areas in Indiana. Their effects are wide ranging, including reducing tree growth and forest productivity, decreasing the abundance of native plant species, and providing inferior food and habitat for wildlife. Every woodland owner knows that keeping invasive species from over running their land is a constant challenge. Seemingly as soon as one invasive species has been removed, another is waiting in line to take its place. Controlling infestations of invasive plants is both costly and time consuming.

 

The best way to avoid making a substantial investment in
fighting invasive plants is to prevent their arrival and spread in the first place. Here are some easy ways to keep invasive plants from taking hold on your land.

One of the easiest things you can do to prevent invasions is to make sure you aren't plating invasive species on your land. Species such as Japanese honeysuckle, Asian bittersweet, Japanese barberry, and purple loosestrife were all widely planted in Indiana to beautify yards and commercial properties and have become some of the state's worst invaders. Reed canary grass, crown vetch, and white and yellow sweet clovers are frequently planted for forage or erosion control but are aggressive invaders of natural areas. Know what you're buying when you shop for plants, and look for native or non-invasive alternatives. If a friend offers to share a plant that is overly abundant in his or her yard, you may want to think twice. Make sure you know what species you're getting, or you could inadvertently be spreading invasive plants in your area.

 

For more information on alternatives to commonly planted invasive species, take a look at the Midwest Invasive Plant Network's (MIPN'S) brochure, entitles "Landscape alternatives for invasive plants of the Midwest", available at www.mipn.org.

 

While avoid intentionally introducing invasive plants is simple once you have the right information about what to plant and what not to plant, many species are accidentally introduced by seeds hiding in the wheels of your car, bike, ATV, or heavy machinery, or even on the soles of your shoes. Some species may be spread in contaminated fill dirt, mulch, gravel, or hay. To prevent these accidental invasions, make sure that you hose down your bikes, cars, and equipment when you have been traveling through an area infested with invasive plants.  Brush mud or dirt from the treads of your shoes before entering a natural area to remove any seeds that my be hitch hiking there. For heavily traveled areas, such as trail through a park or preserve, consider installing a boot brush station to encourage visitors to clean their shoes off before entering. Boot brush stations are relatively inexpensive and include both a stationary brush at ground level and an interpretive sign that briefly describes the problems caused by invasive plants and how the
simple act of cleaning your shoes can prevent invasions in natural areas. Using certified weed free products in Indiana, contact the Indiana Crop Improvement Center (www.indianacrop.org).

 

Despite our best efforts to prevent the introduction and spread of invasive plants, some new invaders will slip through the cracks. If we catch these new invaders before they become too widespread, we still have a chance of eradication them through early detection and rapid response. You can learn about new invasive species in the Midwest by looking at the MIPN's flyer called "Keep a Lookout for New Invasive Plants in the Midwest", available at www.mipn.org. If you see any of these new invasive plants, be sure to report the sighting to the Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Lab, Purdue University at 765-494-7071 or 1-866-NOEXOTIC or by email at ppdl@purdue.edu. More information on identification and current distribution of these and other invasive plants in Indiana can be found on the website of the Cooperative Agricultural Pest Survey (http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/CAPS/plants.html) .

 

Previously I discussed poisonous plants for livestock. The methods employed for control and removal or ultimately eradication of poisonous plants can be in large part be applied to control and eradicate invasive plants. Concern for both is very important this time of year for several reasons. Seeds are small, maturing and they are easily transported in a pant cuff, tire tread or on a vehicle, camper, boat, trailer or piece of equipment. Small pieces of some plants will break off, attach to animals or passersby and take root where they fall off. The same care and concern needs to be taken to avoid the spread of diseases, both plant and animal.

 

Common sense and good judgment works year around especially in the fall as we travel to fairs, festivals, parks, scenic attractions and more before the snow flies.